sheds plans : DIY Industrial Farmhouse Table and HowTo Video Shanty 2 Chic

DIY Industrial Farmhouse Table and How-To Video - Shanty 2 Chic

We’re back with another how-to video! Click HERE or the image below to watch!

We built this Industrial Farmhouse Table for our friend Rachel’s Shanty House Crash! Rachel asked us to crash her kitchen nook. She has three boys so we wanted to give her a table that was not only durable but chic and budget friendly. (If you missed the first of the 4 house crash videos, in this series, you can click HERE to watch)

You can click HERE for the Free Printable Plans and follow along in the how-to below!

We started by ripping all of the 2×6 boards to 5″ and the 2×4’s to 3″. This is not a necessary step but it makes for nice straight edges and allows us to hide the seams on the chunky table legs that we built. The plans are based on ripping these boards so if you don’t rip them, make sure to adjust the measurements accordingly.

cuts-for-table — Next, we made all of our cuts for the table. Tip: for a precise breadboard cut, wait until the planks are attached and measure and cut to fit perfect.

drill-pocket-holes-in-2x6-boards — Once the cuts were made, we drilled all of the 1 1/2″ pocket holes with our Kreg Jig K5. Refer to the printable plans for pocket hole placement. You can find the Kreg Jig K5

HERE on Amazon.

laminate-boards — Time to laminate! We put glue on one 2×6 and layered another 2×6 on top of it.

clamp-boards-to-laminate — Then, we used clamps to hold the boards in place. Do this for all 4 legs and let the wood glue dry overnight.

pocket-holes-in-planks — While the legs are drying, you can begin to build the planked top!

attach-planks — Attach all of the planks with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

attach-breadboards — Then, measure and cut the breadboards to fit! Attach with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Once the legs are dry, you can build the table frame. First, attach the short and long aprons to the legs. The aprons will be flush with the top of the legs and centered on the face of the legs. Attach with wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

glue-on-supports — Now for the supports. Apply wood glue to each support

attach-supports-with-pocket-screwsjpg — and attach them to the long aprons with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws.

Once the supports are attached, you can attach the 4×4 leg runners. If you have a Kreg HD, then you can just drilled 3 1/2″ pocket holes into the 4×4’s. If not, you can just attach them with 3 1/2″ Spax screws from the front faces of the legs into the runners. You can hid the screw holes, with the hardware, at the end.

Now, attach the short runner, between the two leg runners. Use wood glue and 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws. The top of the runner should be flush with the top of the leg runners.

To attach the long runner, apply glue to the bottom of the long runner and clamp the long runner under the short runner. Attach with 2″ Spax screws from the bottom of the short runner into the long runner.

attach-frame-to-table-top — Next, put the table frame over the planked top and attach it to the top with 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws from the aprons and supports into the table top.

We chose Briarsmoke stain by Varathane to finish the table. Wipe on one coat with a clean cloth, wait about 5 minutes and then wipe away the excess stain with a new clean

cloth.

To protect the finish, we applied one coat of Varathane Triple Thick Poly in Matte finish. Just brush on with a bristle brush. It will look like glue before it dries

Now to make it pretty (and industrial)!

strong-ties — Here is the hardware we used! 4 Simpson Strong-tie angles, 4 Simpson Strong-tie straps, 4 Simpson Strong-tie Outdoor Accents Washers and 4 Simpson Strong-ties Outdoor Accents hex screws. We spray painted the silver pieces with a flat, black spray paint.

You can find the metal angle pieces HERE and the straight piece HERE on Amazon. The Outdoor Accents are Home Depot finds.

attach-hardware — We attached the straps and angles to the table with small hex screws that we also painted black.

4x4-hardware — We used the washers and large hex screws on the legs, where the leg runners attached. This is where you can hide your screw holes if you didn’t use the HD Jig.

That was IT! How do you like it????

Rachel LOVED it and we do too You can find out all the info for the rest of the pieces in her new kitchen nook below!

Planked Wall: How-to Video HERE!

Terrariums (on table): HERE

Stems: HERE

Table Runner: HERE

Chandelier: HERE

Chairs: HERE

Rug: HERE

Frames: Hobby Lobby (HOME printables coming soon)!

Bench: How-to Video and plans coming soon!

Chalkboard: How-to Video coming soon!

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JenuineMom • 24 days ago

This is a GORGEOUS table! I love your step by step details. And the total cost. It"s amazing how you can get a beautiful table if you make it yourself. I made a trestle table over five years ago and it"s still going strong, admired by all who see it. Thank you so much for sharing!

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higham • a month ago

My favorite table so far. I was going to try to build a RH knockoff (Reclaimed wood & zinc strap dining table) but I like yours so much better!!!!! I see a new table in my future. LOVE! LOVE! LOVE! You ladies are the BOMB! Thanks for sharing this!

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Jamie K • a month ago

Oh dear - it"s beautiful!! What a joy it must"ve been to see what you did when she opened her eyes!! What a blessing!!!

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Serena • a month ago

I"ve been waiting all week for this video and the plans! I can"t wait to build it!
Is there a major difference between the framing lumber and dimensional or pressure treated lumber as far as aesthetics go?

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Regi • a month ago

I love it! My daughter wants a farmhouse table for Christmas, and she wants it to be sturdy. I think this one fits the bill! She"s got 3 littles, and this table looks like it can stand up to being stood on...lol! Great job, and thanks for sharing!!!

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