If you’ve been following along for awhile, you’ll remember the rustic X side table I built a few months back via plans from Ana White.
The plan was to build a coordinating coffee table as well, but first we had to wait for the furniture to arrive, then figure out how to adjust her plans to make a table that would fit our space and then…
well honestly, I just needed to buckle down and build it.
Finally, after months of hemming and hawing between this and one other version I’d seen online, I bit the bullet and built!
The original plans from Ana White were a bit small for the space I had in mind. (click image for link to plans)
For my family room, with my ginormous sofas, I needed a table that was 60″ long and 33″ wide – so I had to make some adjustments to Ana’s plan.
If you want to build a larger version of this DIY coffee table, follow Ana’s plans, but use the below as your cut list:
- 6 2×6 boards at 60″ long (top)
- 4 – 2×4 @ 16 ½” (legs)
- 4 – 2×2 @ 49″ (side trim)
- 4 – 2×4 @ 25 1/2” (end trim)
- 2 – 1×12 @ 49″” (bottom shelf)
- 1 – 1×3 @49″ (bottom shelf)
- 2 – 2×2 @ 27 3/4” (both ends cut at ~60 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends are parallel)
- 4 – 2×2 @ 12 1/2” (long point to short point) angle to be determined
The other adjustment that I made to Ana’s plans was to use 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws throughout.
The only tricky part to this version of the DIY coffee table was adjusting the base shelf to fit my larger dimensions – for my table I used two 1 x 12″ boards cut to 49″ long, but then I had a 2.5″ gap between the boards. We shaved down the extra 1 x 12″ boards we had in the garage to give me the strip I needed to fill the gap, and then inserted it in the centre of the shelf with biscuit joints.
I’m wondering if a better, and cheaper, alternative would be to buy 1 x 8″ boards (which are really about 7.5″ wide and then rip each of them down by 1 1/2″ for a nice uniform look?
One other little “glitch” to be aware of is that your angles on a larger table won’t be the same as Ana’s plans. To compensate for this I laid my 2×2 boards across the gap I wanted to fill (the X section) and then drew a line on either end of the boards. Not technical or mathematically specific – but they did fit perfectly, so I’m going to go with it. Cut your long board first and glue and screw it into place, then lay the two sections of 2×2 over the balance of the x and draw your lines/angles.
Truth be told, my mitre saw doesn’t have a 60 degree angle marked on it, so it was going to be a “cut and pray” situation either way. lol
Either way, you’ll want to use a Kreg Jig and pocket screws PLUS wood glue to give your bottom shelf strength. You really don’t see the centre seam whichever way you go.
This was my point of panic – remember that side table? The one where I stained and sanded it down 3 times to try and find the “right” finish and then it still ended up off after varnish was added? I didn’t want to go through that again, so I thought I’d test out a new product (for me) and go with a gel stain from Varathane in “Weathered Grey”. (You’ll use less than a pint)
I was still looking for that Restoration Hardware colour, but without having to stain and sand it off three times to get there – this seemed an easier route to go.
It did yellow somewhat after I used the triple thick varnish – but that just warmed up the colour slightly and overall I’m pretty pleased. (You’ll use about half a quart of varnish and that’s with two coats on the table top and shelf)
Best part – it’s perfect for my space!
Check that – the best part is that I made a custom piece of furniture (do you believe I DIY’d a coffee table?!) for a grand total of $80 Cdn!
I had friends over for tea
I think I might need a larger tray to go on my DIY coffee table… strictly for the aesthetics of proportion and not at all because this was so easy I can’t stop building.
Have a great one!
Linked to:
Original article and pictures take http://100things2do.ca/diy-rustic-x-coffee-table/ site
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