Make It Headphone Stand

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A problem that"s as old as time. Kick butt pair of headphones, but no where to keep them safe and looking good.

Sit back and relax as I take you through the steps to make a headphone stand worthy of those beautiful cans!

If you"d like to cut to the chase and think you can figure out most of it on your own, check out this video...

Links to the products used in this build can be found in the video description on YouTube.

ONWARD!...

Step 1: Select Your Base Material, Define The Shape

Now a lot of people are going to immediately say "listen buddy I don"t have all those fancy highfalutin tools, I"m just getting started in this maker game..." That"s Great!! It gives you the chance to get creative and come up with your own version. Maybe solve a few problems and develop some new skills! Even if you tried your hardest to replicate the one I built, and are a card carrying certified master woodworker, it will never be 100% identical.

For my stand, I wanted to mix a bandsaw box with a little wood turning. I picked two contrasting woods, Walnut and Sapele. I cut the Sapele in half at the bandsaw and glued the three pieces together with a single layer of paper between the wood. I used the paper to help when it comes time to separate the layers. You"ll see more in the next step.

Once the blank was dry, I glued it onto a sacrificial tenon with hot glue and chucked it up in the lathe. I turned the blank into the round with a slight convex in the top and sides. Once I was happy with the shape, I sanded the whole thing, starting with 120 grit and going up to 400 grit.

This is where the paper trick helps. I use some fresh razor blades to wedge between the layers and separate the top from the middle and the middle from the bottom. The paper creates a weak link, but also a strong hold. The paper and glue residue can be cleaned off

with some lacquer thinner and a razor blade or a light sanding. I use the paper residue on the wood to layout my cut lines for the bandsaw box drawer

I designed a simple drawer while leaving enough material behind the drawer to mount the riser post.

Bandsaw boxes are very easy, but they require some care when cutting. It"s easy to mess it up so take your time. First cut out the drawer out of the middle section. Next cut the front of the drawer off. Flip the drawer on its side and cut the bottom off. Finish by hollowing out the inside of the drawer. Glue the pieces back together and give it a very light sanding. Too much sanding and the fit will be very loose.

I have a trick for covering up the cut lines and improving fit in the next step

Now the middle section can be glued onto the base and the top onto the middle. I like to glue strips of wood that are the same thickness as the bandsaw blade thickness into the drawer cavity to ensure the draw fits snugly. Once the glue is dry, I apply a wax finish to the base and drawer front. (only the drawer front, not the rest of the drawer)

To hide the cut lines and really make the drawer fit nicely, I applied a coat of Suede Flock to the inside and outside of the drawer. It"s an inexpensive and versatile way to bring drawers and other certain woodworking projects to the next level. It consists of a thick paint that you brush on to the surface and then dust on fine suede fibers with a dispenser. I did the entire inside, sides, back and bottom of the drawer. It looks and feels great once its dry!

Judging by the feedback I received from the video, my choice of material for the riser post is slightly polarizing. I decided to hammer the copper pipe to create some interesting texture that almost looks like a tree with the bark on it. To do that, I just gave it some light taps with a ball peen hammer in as random a pattern as I could manage until it had a uniform appearance. Then I worked a 90 degree bend near the top slowly to avoid kinking.

Non textured pipe would do the same thing and a 90 degree fitting would make things very simple.

To lay out the rest, I used the headphones to make the curve exact. I dressed up the bottom of the rest with a couple fruitless curves and cut it out on the bandsaw. I sanded all the surfaces smooth and rounded over the edges with 400 grit sandpaper.

With all the wooden parts complete, it"s just a matter of drilling a few holes to accept the post and gluing it all together. I place tape on top of the wood so I can lay out the hole placement without having to mark the surface of the wood. I prefer 2 part epoxy for bonding metal to wood since its inexpensive and has a strong hold.

Since the drawer is nearly impossible to open without one, I decided to add a a drawer pull. To match the hammered copper riser post, I hammered a scrap piece of copper rod into a mushroom shape and glued it into a hole in the drawer front.

That"s it! At first it may seem like a lot of work but it really isn"t. This project can be expanded upon or toned down to suit your needs. If you don"t have a need for the drawer, skip that step completely. Don"t have a Lathe, make the base a square. There are a bunch of ways to simplify this project while not affecting the overall usefulness.

Happy Building!

Links to the products used in this build can be found in the video description on YouTube.

Original article and pictures take http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-It-Headphone-Stand/ site


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